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Wines worth trying – Tasted an tried

Franz Hirtzberger-Riesling-Smaragd-Singerriedel-2023

Let’s rave about Franz Hirtzberger’s great 2023 Riesling Ried Singerriedel

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Steep Delight

The 2023 Riesling Smaragd comes from a steep vineyard characterised by dry stone walls at the entrance to the town of Spitz in the Austrian Wachau region. There is a lot to rave about vintage 2023 Riesling Ried Singerriedel from Weingut Franz Hirtzberger.  Stuart Pigott, senior editor of James Suckling, gave it the perfect score. Let’s watch out for this steep delight.

Let’s rave about Franz Hirtzberger’s great 2023 Riesling Ried Singerriedel

Well, you see what happens when you put key players in the wine industry into one room to taste the best site-specific Austrian wines. As an attendee of the 2024 Single Vineyard Summit in Grafenegg, I had the opportunity to sample and evaluate Erste Lage (Premier Cru) wines from the Österreichische Traditionsweingüter (ÖTW). My last day of the summit, Friday the 13th of September was surprisingly far from unlucky. All right, you could ask. What is that all about? On Friday the 13th, we tasted wines from Vinea Wachau, the association of winemakers in the Wachau wine-growing area.

Wachau wine region

The Wachau wine region in Austria is renowned for producing high-quality white wines, particularly from the grapes Grüner Veltliner and Riesling. Situated along the Danube River, Wachau is a stunning scenic region that winds along the hillsides between Melk and Krems.

Let’s rave about Franz Hirtzberger’s great 2023 Riesling Ried Singerriedel

UNESCO World Heritage living cultural landscape

In 2000 Wachau was included to UNESCO World Heritage as a living cultural landscape due to its agricultural and forest habitats and the authenticity of its towns and monuments. But Wachau is also known for its long winemaking tradition on steep terraced vineyards with their unique microclimate and soil composition. The wines from the Wachau region are known for their unique characteristics that reflect their origin. The wines from this region often exhibit vibrant acidity, a stoney minerality and expressive fruit flavours, making them highly sought after by wine lovers worldwide.

Vinea Wachau Nobilis Districtus

Founded in 1983, Vinea Wachau Nobilis Districtus is the association of Wachau winegrowers. More than 200 producers committed to Vinea’s strict standards next to preserving the local distinctiveness by giving up the option to purchase grapes or wine from other areas and by refraining from cultivating vineyards in different regions. In Wachau they have a saying: “There is more to be gained by joining forces”.

Vinea-wachau-vineyards-along the-Donau-in-Wachau-Austria. Photo Weingut Franz Hirtzberger.

The name Vinea Wachau Nobilis Districtus dates back to Leuthold I von Kuenring (1243-1313). The core of his possessions consisted of what is now the wine-growing area of Wachau. In 2022, Vinea Wachau joined the Single Vineyard Summit. Their single-vineyard wines are frequently exceptional.

2024 ÖTW Single Vineyard Summit

When I walked into the Single Vineyard Summit tasting room in the original stables of Grafenegg I began to smile. There was an endless row of Wachau bottles staring me in the face. I could not resist. I had to taste these wines from vintage 2023 and some vintage 2022. The Single Vineyard Summit format is a so-called ‘silent tasting’. Quietly, I tiptoed from the endless row to a table, sat down, and filled out the form to order the selected wines. One of the Vinea Wachau members, yes you are served by the Wachau producers, returned with a bottle rack containing 5 bottles and a spittoon.

Let’s rave about Franz Hirtzberger’s great 2023 Riesling Ried Singerriedel

Wingut Franz Hirtzberger Riesling Smaragd 2023 Ried Singerriedel

Upon receiving the first wine in the glass, I knew I was in for a treat. I was greeted by the delightful aromas of a sun-drenched meadow brimming with flowers and herbs, ripe, juicy peaches, citrus, and yellow apples. The overall taste was savoury and mineral, yet restrained. Firm, tight-knit, elegant, layered on the palate with pear, stone fruit, delicate pineapple and mango, fine acidity, lingering finish and great ageing potential. A very convincing wine by a winemaker who knows his craft, I thought. I gave it 96-97 points.

A perfect score

This week I received an e-mail saying that James Suckling Senior Editor Stuart Pigott gave the Riesling Smaragd Ried Singerriedel 2023 by Franz Hirtzberger the perfect score: 100 points. Stuart wrote that “Franz Hirtzberger Jr. really nailed the winemaking with this great Wachau Riesling masterpiece”. And I could not agree more. Thanks to the God of Wine, Friday the 13th turned out an incredibly fortunate day!

Read more in the James Suckling Weekly Tasting Report: https://www.jamessuckling.com/…/the-wachau-sweet-spot…/

More about the enjoyable experiences and other wines at the Single Vineyard Summit in the future. Some wines will be included in upcoming tasting notes.

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Tasting the unique Loimer Gluegglich white NV driven by curiosity

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Tasting the unique Loimer Gluegglich white NV driven by curiosity

Tasting Note

Gluegglich  ‘Gemischter Satz’ white welcomes you into the enchanting world of the Austrian winery Loimer. Gemischter Satz is an old Austrian tradition in which different grape varieties are planted and (generally) fermented together. The blend of different grape varieties results in a layered aroma palette and pleasant tension in the wine. This biodynamic Gluegglich white is a wonderfully fresh orange-style wine, low in alcohol with subdued spiciness. When you taste Gluegglich it shows an invigorating, gracious congeniality.

After I visited Weingut Loimer in 2017 the estate always stayed on my radar. Why? Because Fred Loimer is an exceptionally talented winegrower. Loimer combines all his talents to create authentic wines, shaped by their place of origin. His passion for making remarkable wines quickly earned him the nickname perfectionist.

Loimer took over the family winery (making wine since the 17th century) from his parents in 1998. Fred’s mission is to produce wines that tell a story about their location and the power of nature via the respectful treatment of soil, plants, animals and people. Loimer’s production process can be described as a “closed operating organism”, or what Rudolf Steiner, the father of biodynamic agriculture, called the outcome of “farm individuality”. The result can sometimes be controversial but the wines are always authentic.

Loimer has plots of land in various areas, all of which have different soils and microclimates that are better for growing certain varieties. Of the 40 hectares of vineyards that Fred Loimer manages, the vineyards around Langelois (Kamptal) and Gumpoldskirchen (Thermenregion) allow him to produce Gluegglich, the expressive field blend of grapes that radiates both finesse, balance and complexity in the glass.

The aromas on the nose are fruit-driven and include scents of dried and fresh yellow apples, pink pears, apricots, roses and even orange blossoms. Completely dry with a strong citrus expression, such as bitter orange and pink grapefruit. The compact body shows a juicy texture with grip, dynamic tension and notes of salt-crusted orange slices. The lively acidity is laced in the finish with a mineral saltiness often called sapidity.

When you taste Gluegglich keep a quote from Salvador Dali in mind: “The connoisseur does not drink wine but tastes its secrets.’’ Gluegglich is a wine you should try if you are looking for a fresh, fruity wine with a unique twist, a wine often praised for its unique taste and aftertaste.

Wine Info

Style – Medium-bodied fresh, layered, not filtered wine

Grape varieties – 18% Grüner Veltliner, 21% Riesling, 6% Chardonnay, 16% Zierfandler, 3% Weißburgunder, 13% Sauvignon Blanc, 11% Rotgipfler, 7% Traminer, 4% Weißburgunder, 1% Gemischterer Satz, 1% Muskateller

Vintage – Non-vintage blend, 2022 (45%), 2021 (35%) 2020 (9%), 2019 (4%), 2018 (7%) 

Country – Austria

Appellation – According to the Austrian wine law, a wine from different vintages can “only” be called ‘Landwein’.

Region – Thermenregion and Kamptal

Producent – Weingut Loimer 

Alcohol – 12%

Fermentation: spontaneous in oak casks partly with berries or mash.

Aging: 4 months on full lees, 2 months on fine lees, up to 3 years of the vintage reserves

Vineyards – Gumpoldskirchen and Langenlois

Ageing potential – till 2025

Serving temperature – 11º to 14º

Score – 90 points

Tasted – April 2024

Recommended food pairing: down-to-earth cooking, such as grilled vegetables or seafood

Bio reference: Kontrollstelle AT-BIO-402 | Österreichische Landwirtschaft

Remarks: The wine has 5 out of 5 glasses in the Austrian Wine Guide. 

Weingut Loimer Langenlois Austria
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Sarunè Asti Secco, an innovative dry sparkling Moscato Bianco

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Tasting Note

During a recent visit to Cantina Toso in Piemonte, I discovered a dry sparkling wine called Sarunè. It falls under the Asti Secco label, which was granted DOCG status in 2017. Sarunè is a pleasant surprise because the wine is dry, not off-dry or medium-sweet like most Asti sparkling wines. Additionally, the 13,200 bottles of Sarunè are the first Asti Secco DOCG wines without added sulphites, quite an accomplishment.

The territory of the Moscato Bianco grapes was delimited in 1932 and covers 52 municipalities in Alexandria, Asti, and Cuneo. What makes the areas of the Moscato Bianco so fascinating is their natural diversity. Moscato Bianco can be found on the steep hills of the Langhe and the rounder, smoother hills of Monferrato. The Consortium for the Protection of Asti wines or Tutela dell’Asti DOCG knows three pillars: wines of Asti Secco DOCG, Asti Dolce DOCG and Moscato d’Asti DOCG. 

Akin to the more well-known sweet Asti Dolce and Moscato d’Asti, Sarunè Asti Secco is made from Moscato Bianco grapes. Moscato Bianco grown in 52 municipalities in Alexandria, Asti, and Cuneo. To produce Sarunè Asti Secco 50.000 healthy bunches are needed, carefully selected and hand-picked from the vineyards of Marini and San Grato in Santo Stefano Belbo and Canelli. 

The ripe, intact, healthy bunches are vinified with a small addition of carbon dioxide. The carbonic snow cools the grape bunches and protects the grapes with a natural film that prevents oxygen from settling, thus avoiding oxidation. The wine is then stored under a nitrogen hood, without adding sulphites. This is an ancient and natural process that enables organic production.

The resulting dry sparkling wine is fresh, aromatic and fragrant. It has floral, acacia, elderberry, orange blossom aromas and fruity notes of citrus, pear, bergamot tea, and white peach. On the palate, Sarunè Asti Secco is dry, soft, and balanced, with good acidity and a long, savoury finish.

Wine Info

Style – Sparkling

Grape varieties – Moscato Bianco

Country – Italy

Appellation – Asti Secco DOCG

Region – Cuneo, Asti and Alessandria

Producent – Cantina Toso di Cossano Belbo

Detail – without added sulphites and preservatives

Alcohol – 11%

Vineyards – Marini and San Grato vineyards in Santo Stefano Belbo and Canelli

Ageing potential – Drink now

Serving temperature – 6º to 8º

Score – 86 points

Website – Cantine Toso

Cantine Toso
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Le Pinada or how to decode the tricky personality of the Marsanne grape

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Resolutely Meditteranean

It is the story of the origin that matters here. The vineyards of Puisserguier are surrounded by “Garrigues”. This “je ne sais quoi” gives the Marsanne grape its gentle, fruity expression in Le Pinada Marsanne IGP Pays D’Oc 2018.

Adernats Nulles Wine Cathedral- modernist winery designed in 1917 by César Martinell

So that is that. I wanted to write about a Marsanne wine. 100% Marsanne wines are not easy to find. Le Pinada Marsanne surprised me. Le Pinada has a pleasant, slightly floral, nose full of white fruit, peach, pear and sweet lemon, also some acacia. On the palate, the wine is fresh, juicy, generous, pleasantly dry, fruity, with a touch of almondy bitterness in the finish.

Le Pinada or how to decode the tricky personality of the Marsanne grape

Cave coopérative de Puisserguier got it right with this wine

It is the story of the origin that matters here. Le Pinada 2018 IGP Pays D’Oc is a gentle expression of a Marsanne coming from the rugged, stoney soils of Hérault, in the Languedoc-Roussillon wine region.

Marsanne can be a tricky grape to grow

A winemaker has to walk a fine line to find the right balance between acidity and ripeness. This leaves only a narrow window for harvest. Done right, Marsanne possesses a sly acidity, ripe fruit flavours, plus enough structure and weight to become an age-worthy, complex wine. Left too long on the vine, Marsanne can easy over ripen, gain in alcohol, and lose its acidity levels. Resulting in a flabby wine. Picked too early herbaceous, vegetal aromas can prevail.

The grapes for the Le Pinada wines are picked at night to preserve the freshness. Fermentation is carried out at a low temperature so that the fruit aromas remain optimally present in the wine. After fermentation, the wine remains on the lie, the dead yeast cells, for another 2 months to gain complexity.

Le Pinada or how to decode the tricky personality of the Marsanne grape

A few decennia ago, producers of the village of Puisserguier suffered from the effects of overproduction. This was not at the time uncommon. Languedoc-Roussillon was mostly known for the production of large quantities of bulk wine of acceptable quality.

Stories like these, have been told often

Faced with periodic difficulties to sell their wines in an increasingly competitive market, producers in the Languedoc-Roussillon long ago learned to organize themselves into cooperatives. The Puisserguier cooperative was founded in 1936. Faced with a decline in wine consumption, more international competition, and the growing demand for higher quality wines, the future looked bleak.

The producers were so reliant on poor sales that they tended to disregard the fall in prices and the change in consumer taste. Grubbing out old vines and distilling the oversupply with EU subsidies only temporarily eased the crisis. The whole situation demanded a radical change.

Le Pinada or how to decode the tricky personality of the Marsanne grape

Innovation, a new generation, quality improvement and modern marketing

About 20 years ago, the Puisserguier cooperative started to innovate vigorously by reorganizing vineyards, replanting varieties and improving their wine production methods. Several grape varieties from elsewhere in France were planted, such as Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Merlot. The wine quality increased significantly, and modern marketing put Puisserguier’s wines on the wine map.

Joint ventures

Located in the department of Hérault, about 20 km west of Béziers, the ‘Cave coopérative de Puisserguier’ is a partner of Trois Terroirs, a joint venture of 5 cooperatives. Trois refers to the three different soil types in the area, slate, limestone/clay and sandstone/marl. The climate is Mediterranean, defined by generous sunshine, and cooling winds from the sea. There are other changes too. Les vignerons de Puisserguier joined the Vignerons du Pays d’Ensérune.

The vines are cultivated on low lands near the sea, or on hilly, rugged vineyards slightly inland characterized by “Garrigues”. In wine terms, Garrigues stands for aromas found in wine such as thyme, lavender, juniper, rosemary, and oregano. Garrigue translates as a scrub in French and means wild-growing aromatic underbrush and scrubs coming from the rugged limestone soils found in Southern France.

Les vignerons de Puisserguier

Puisserguier

Pago-de-Larrainzar featured

Pago de Larrainzar gives magic to the ancestral land in Navarra

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Bona fide Navarra

A magical forest, a vineyard and a dream to make wine give sense to the ancestral land of the Canalejo Larrainzar family. The result: Pago de Larrainzar Reserva Especial 2014 single vineyard.

Pago de Larrainzar gives magic to the ancestral land in Navarra

I always wish to be born into a family of vine growers and winemakers. A statement I make to underline my romantic vision of a simple but altogether pleasant life. Heaven knows, I even made wine, which I thoroughly enjoyed. Sadly it ended there, for now. I gather my dreams, but for the Larrainzar family, winemaking became a way of life. Their motto for Pago de Larrainzar: to make wine is to give sense to this land.

Pago de Larrainzar gives magic to the ancestral land in Navarra

Some history


Halfway between Logroño and Pamplona, great-great-grandfather Luis Larrainzar acquired land from the monks of the nearby Monastery of Irache in the 1850s. The family farm was part of the Monastery of Irache, which was a hospital and a university during the Middle Ages.
In this magical setting at the foot of the Montejurra Mountain Luis planted Tempranillo grapes and established a small winery with limited production. And, with success. The 1929 wine competition of the World Exposition in Barcelona awarded Pago de Larrainzar a gold medal. Over time, the Larrainzar family decided to distance itself from winemaking but kept the land. In the 1970s, the first winery was sold.

Pago de Larrainzar gives magic to the ancestral land in Navarra

The restart, a family project


After working for decades in the telecommunications industry, 4th generation Miguel C. Larrainzar decided in 2001 to revive the ancestral winemaking tradition. Two of his children joined him on the project: Miguel Canalejo Lasarte, as technical director, and Irene Canalejo Lasarte, as marketing and sales director. To “create” a wine with character and soul from the Larrainzar vineyards, Miguel hired renowned experts such as enologist Ignacio de Miguel Poch and vine specialist Mr Lissarrague to advise and coach the team of Pago de Larrainzar.

A sustainable approach to farming 


At Pago de Larrainzar the vineyards are structured in a single plot, located between the right bank of the Ega river and the north slope of Montejurra. Thanks to the soil conditions of the vineyard and the presence of large pebbles, there is excellent water retention. What always stands out, is the importance they give to growing their 17 ha of vines. Their sustainable approach means respectfully working the vineyard without altering the ecosystem. It also follows the rules of the DOP Navarra Control Board, which guarantees quality standards and typicity of the wines.

Pago de Larrainzar gives magic to the ancestral land in Navarra

A blend with personality


The winery uses its best grapes and selected native yeasts common in the area as the base for making red wines. Pago de Larrainzar produces only high-quality red wines from Tempranillo, Garnacha, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. At Pago de Larrainzar they believe in blending wines made from a single harvest. Blending starts with dozens of different potential wines created using different varieties, tank sizes, barrels and toasting levels of French oak barrels. Every three years the barrels are renewed.

The wine, single-vineyard Pago de Larrainzar Reserva Especial 2014


On one of my tastings, this time organised by Vinos D.O. Navarra in Amsterdam, I found Pago de Larrainzar Reserva Especial 2014 in my glass. A wine only made when the vintage is exceptional. The 2014 vintage comes after deciding not to make a Reserva Especial in the 2012 and 2013 vintages.

Pago de Larrainzar gives magic to the ancestral land in Navarra

It is Pago de Larrainzar’s most international blend. This ruby coloured blend of international varieties Cabernet Sauvignon 40%, Merlot 40%, and 20% Tempranillo. The local Tempranillo gives it greater complexity and a genuinely Navarrese character. On the nose, it has good intensity, with notes of black plum, berries, cassis, tomato leaf, cedar, burnt wood, dry hay and an earthy, leathery finish. On the palate, soft, fresh with a good level of acidity, not heavy, very well integrated oak, toast and polished, long finish. In some tastings, certain wines stand out, and this Reserva Especial 2014 was one of them.

Family Canalejo Larrainzar’s motto – to make wine is to give sense to their land in Ayegui, Spain – works very well for me.  One day I hope to visit them as I want to discover Pago de Larrainzar and the diversity of landscapes and wines from D.O. Navarra myself.

Bodega Pago de Larrainzar

D.O. Navarra

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Yearning for German Mosel’s Rieslings? Let Eva Clüsserath surprise you

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Tasting Note

Riesling needs more attention. Let’s wake up and start paying closer attention to the quiet charms of Weingut Ansgar Clüsserath’s Apotheke Trittenheim.

The Apotheke vineyards are part of the finest vineyard sites in Trittenheim, Germany. Located on the right bank of the Mosel, opposite the village of Trittenheim, the Apotheke soils of slate and rocks are perfect for Riesling. Add Riesling vines of at least 80 years old plus the expertise of winemaker Eva Clüsserath-Wittmann, and you’ll get the picture.

More than 20 years ago, Eva Clüsserath-Wittmann took up the reins of the estate that her ancestors had founded in 1670. Eva sees herself more as a “wine collaborator” than a winemaker. She works closely with nature in the vineyard and intervenes as little as possible in the cellar.

Eva Clüsserath-Wittmann’s wines are precise and lyrical. She orchestrates the top and mid-tones during the slow fermentation with the natural yeasts. The fine lees remain on the wine until summer, making them taste richer and gaining depth and structure.

The result is a wine with traceable minerals, lively freshness and layered fruitiness with stone fruits, apricot, apple and tropical mango. 

Eva Clüsserath is a veritable phenomenon. Her wines,  especially the wines from the Trittenheimer Apotheke vineyard, are among the best in Germany’s Mosel Valley.

Wine Info

Style – medium-bodied red

Grape varieties – Riesling

Vintage – 2018

Country – Germany

Appellation – Mosel

Region – Mittelmosel, Bernkastel-Wittrich

Producent – Weingut Ansgar Clüsserath

Winemaker – Eva Clüsserath

Alcohol – 8.5%

Vineyards – Trittenheimer Apotheke

Ageing potential – 10 years

Serving temperature – 10º to 12º

Score – 92 points

Website – Weingut Ansgar Clüsserath

Weingut Ansgar Clüsserath
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Finca San Blas shows the potential of Garnacha from one of Spain’s driest & coldest DOs

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Rooted vision

When you combine the wine ambition of Finca San Blas’ owners, the Spanish Zahonero family, with the vision of the innovative winemaker oenologist Nicolás Sánchez don’t be surprised when Garnacha speaks to you.

Finca San Blas shows the potential of Garnacha from one of Spain’s driest & coldest DOs

On the way to Requena, I contemplate on the subject of roots. Since I had not been west of Valencia for a long time many impressions crowed in on me as I was looking at the vines. If my remote ancestors would have stayed in Spain, would wine be part of my history? Roots imply a connection with the land, the vines, and ultimately making wine. It seemed to me that the earth here was generous and that Finca San Blas took a cue from it.

Finca San Blas shows the potential of Garnacha from one of Spain’s driest & coldest DOs

The natural wealth of Finca San Blas

Finca San Blas’ owners, the Zahonero family, have a very close connection with nature and a very special relationship with wine. The family’s feet are firmly rooted in the soil of their vast 585 hectares estate, 2 km Southwest of Requena and 80 km west of Valencia. Moreover, they strongly believe in biodiversity. Finca San Blas’ not only consists of lush forests with pines and junipers in the high lands. There are the olive and almond trees, plus cereals fields too, and aromatic herbs such as rosemary and saffron. And, vines.

The first vintage of the new Garnacha

Finca San Blas’ grows a kaleidoscope of grapes varieties, such as Bobal, Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Chardonnay, Merseguera, Xarello and Chenin Blanc, yet they select the best grapes for their terroir wines. Their roots impregnated with a diverse range of local flora aromas and flavours known as matoral or tomillares, similar to the impact of garrigue, the local hillside vegetation in the Languedoc. The result, a wine full of character but still elegant. I tasted their new wine, the first vintage -2019- of Finca San Blas Garnacha, the grape called Grenache in France.

Finca San Blas shows the potential of Garnacha from one of Spain’s driest & coldest DOs

Tasting Finca San Blas Garnacha

I immediately noticed the silky texture, it is Garnacha at its young, fruity best. Finca San Blas Garnacha is the result of old bush vines, terroir and winemaking, a 100 % pure varietal wine. Fresh, juicy, medium-bodied, with lively acidity, showing a unique natural, mouth-coating varietal wealth. Generous pure ripe blackberry, red cherry, plum, black and red currant along with subtle, spicy, herbal and some mineral notes too. This is a serious, yet elegant, easy to understand Garnacha that goes extremely well with food.

The natural terroir and height are decisive for  Garnacha in Utiel-Requena

To make interesting wine, Garnacha has to be ripe and is in any case late-ripening. Vines are planted on an average altitude of 700 m above sea level. Height is decisive for Utiel-Requena. The diurnal day-night differences (sometimes up to 30 ° C) allow for a slow, optimal maturation of the grapes. Garnacha is helped as well by its ability to thrive without much water. The natural conditions also protect the vines from diseases, they are less prone to vineyard plagues.

Finca San Blas shows the potential of Garnacha from one of Spain’s driest & coldest DOs

The strong link between the Zahonero family and winemaker, oenologist Prof Nicolás Sánchez

The wish to create terroir wines with character is part of the philosophy of the Zahonero family and the winemaker at Finca San Blas, Nicolás Sánchez. Both the Zahonero family as Nicolás are innovators who dare to experiment. Besides, Nicolás Sánchez is a specialist of the Bobal grape variety and one of the most veteran professors of the prestigious School of Viticulture and Enology of Requena. When there were only two wine schools in Spain, many of today’s leading winemakers received their education at Requena. Nicolás also teaches at the famed Polytechnic University of Valencia.

Pioneer in D.O. Utiel-Requena

Nicolás Sánchez makes elegant and complex wines using pioneering techniques never employed before in the area of D.O. Utiel-Requena. Never satisfied with only making the wines that the market wants, he enjoys taking the San Blas terroir to its extreme potential. In 2016, Fica San Blas’ Dulce wine, made in 2013 out of Chardonnay en Merseguera under the influence of noble rot, was awarded “Platinum Best in Show” in the Decanter World Wine Awards.

Finca San Blas shows the potential of Garnacha from one of Spain’s driest & coldest DOs

Of old vines and Garnacha

In an area where cultivating grapes started as early as 700 B.C., it took until the 19th century for the wine production to expand. Finca San Blas started first bottling wines in 1971. Notwithstanding, the region Utiel-Requena is still considered the new kid on the block. Known for its unique and long underestimated Bobal variety, Utiel-Requena started to re-evaluate dry-farmed Garnacha vines too. Instead of cutting Garnacha’s roots away, Garnacha gained permanence, making for a great mix between history and progression. When handled with care Garnacha has its roots deeply embedded in the abundant natural resources of the thriving wine region of Utiel-Requena.

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Cava Huguet at Can Feixes: we want to sell our passion for what we do

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Passionate about Cava

The family Huguet produces first and foremost Cava. They are very passionate about Cava. Winemaker Joan Huguet believes in terroir, diversity and history. A history shaped by a lifetime of being immersed in the craft of making the best Cava possible.

Cava Huguet at Can Feixes: we want to sell our passion for what we do

There must be in everyone a love for Cava, Spain’s sparkling wine. There is a uniqueness to a well made Cava in the traditional method known locally as Methode Champenoise. For starters, in the so-called classical blend  Macabeo adds delicate aromas, Xarel-lo adds a balanced acidity and aromatic structure, while Parellada, well, adds even more freshness and floral aromas. Winejus tasted Cava Huguet Gran Reserva Brut Nature 2009 with as star grape the Parellada. 

Cava Huguet at Can Feixes: we want to sell our passion for what we do

Catalunya is Cava country

Although there are 7 regions in Spain where Cava is made, Catalunya and especially Penedès south of Barcelona is renowned worldwide for its Cava. About 85% to 95% of the Cava production comes from Penedès. Do note that many other areas in Spain make great sparkling wine, yet they are not produced under the Cava label because the producers don’t want to be bound by the rules of the Consejo Regulador DO Cava. The heartland of Penedès Cava is the area around Sant Sadurní d’Anoia.

There are two leagues of Cava

When I visited the Penedès one producer told me: “There are two leagues of Cava. Either the very good to the excellent quality or poor quality produced from a simply blended wine sourced from any number of vineyards.” One of the excellent Cavas producers out there is Cava Huguet Can Feixes.

Cava Huguet at Can Feixes: we want to sell our passion for what we do

Cava Huguet born in the heart of the Penedès

Cava Huguet – Can Feixes is one of the 9 members of Corpinnat, which means ‘born in the heart of the Penedès’. Corpinnat was created in 2017 to promote Cavas produced from specific terroirs within the historic winegrowing area of the Penedès. They work with respect for the (mainly) autochthonous varieties within the geography, climate, geology and history of each terroir. However, the Corpinnat label is about much more than just terroir.

Corpinnat values terroir and quality

Their Cavas are made from 100% organic grapes, at least 75% must be estate grown or come from the Corpinnat designated vineyard area. The grapes are harvested by hand and entirely vinified on the premises of the winery. Corpinnat’s commitment to quality shows as well in the bottle ageing time of Cava, which is always longer than 18 months. Sometimes even more than 30 or more than 60 months. Cava DO starts only at a minimum of 9 months.

Photocredits: Corpinnat

Photocredits: Corpinnat

The passion of the family Huguet for Cava

Bodegas Can Feixes is located near the village of Cabrera d’Anoia and has been the domain of the Feixes family since the 14th-century. Can Feixes has constantly produced wine since 1690. Unfortunately, the Feixes family died out in 1904, and the Huguet family, originally from Piera, acquired the property in 1945. The current Huguet generation, the three brothers José-Maria, Joan and Xavier, run Can Feixas with enormous passion.

Cava Huguet at Can Feixes: we want to sell our passion for what we do

The principles of sustainable agriculture and organic farming reign at Can Feixes

The Huguet family devotes specific high parcels to the production of their world-class sparkling wine. The altitude of the vineyards on the slopes of the northernmost part of the Penedès mountains (400 meters, or even higher), in combination with the calcareous soils and the sea winds, ensure the good ripening of the grapes. Can Feixas works according to the principles of sustainable agriculture and organic farming using many traditional techniques but also new oenological technologies.

The Parellada variety performs exceptional here

We tasted the Huguet Gran Reserva Brut Nature 2009, their long-ageing cava. A blend 56% of the Parellada variety, locally known as ‘Montonec’ or the grape of the mountain, and 23% Macabeo, with a significant 21% of Pinot Noir. All grown exclusively at the Can Feixes Estate. Winery Can Feixas doesn’t buy grapes from other growers. The cavas have aged more than the Gran Reserva minimum of 30 months. In this case, 7-year ‘sur lattes’. Are hand-riddled and disgorged on order. Preferably open the bottle up to 2 years after the date of disgorgement as indicated on the back label.

Cava Huguet at Can Feixes: we want to sell our passion for what we do

The best grapes are kept for production under the Huguet Can Feixes label

Only free-run must from rigorously selected grapes is used for this Cava, with a strong influence of the grape Parellada.  There is zero sugar in this wine. We have the correct acidity, explains Joan Huguet, we don’t need sugar to balance the wine. The fresh malic acid is enough. We don’t do malolactic fermentation.

On the nose the first impression of citrus freshness, then the mature notes of yeast, brioche, nuts, spices and some smokiness set in. A mineral palate with very ripe, almost confected, fruits and ginger complexity and a fresh long finish make the Huguet Gran Reserva Brut Nature 2009 a complex cava, within a marvellous subtlety.

Cava Huguet Can Feixes website

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Ceci n’est pas un vin ordinaire – c’est Domaine de la Jasse Tête de Cuvée 2016

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Classic Cuvée

Craftsmanship, precision, and attention to detail are the keys to crafting fine wine. If you take the Grand Cru dreams of a Dutch owner, an innovative winemaker, and a stellar consultant, and put them all together under the roof of Domaine de la Jasse, you’ll get a classic cuvée made of 100% Cabernet Sauvignon from the Pays D’Oc. 

Adernats Nulles Wine Cathedral- modernist winery designed in 1917 by César Martinell

The painter René Magritte spent a lot of time and effort in coming up with catchy titles for his paintings. There were days he was not satisfied and changed a title several times. Magritte’s genius lies in linking images to the word. This also occurs in the wine world. When the wine label becomes part of a “Gesamtkunstwerk” called ‘Tête de Cuvée’ produced by Domaine de La Jasse.

Ceci n’est pas un vin ordinaire – c’est Domaine de la Jasse Tête de Cuvée 2016

Dreaming of Cabernet Sauvignon

The story behind ‘Tête de Cuvée’ 2016 starts with Hans Walraven, of the well-known Dutch wine merchant family Walraven. Hans has a dream. He dreams of an ‘everyday Grand Cru’ in the style of a great Bordeaux from Pauillac. The key is provided by the predominant grape of Bordeaux: Cabernet Sauvignon.

In the early 1990s, Walraven’s dream comes true when he buys Domaine de la Jasse in the Pays D’Oc from the Beaujard family. His idea is to produce at La Jasse the highest possible quality at small prices, or in marketing terms imminent value for money. But now the real miracle: the composition of the mostly limestone soils, the local micro-climate, everything the French call “terroir”, is perfect at La Jasse for a classic Cabernet Sauvignon.

Photo credits: Domaine de la Jasse
Photo credits: Domaine de la Jasse

It all adds up

The highly talented winemaker Bruno Le Breton gets appointed as the winemaker. Bruno immediately introduces an environmentally friendly way of working on the Domaine, with respect for nature. In 2008 Hans Walraven retires and sells Domaine de la Jasse to Bruno.

In 2009 Bruno hires one of France’s most influential winemakers Patrick Léon († 2018). Patrick’s long winemaking career includes 20 years as winemaker at Château Mouton-Rothschild, technical director at Château Lascombes, owner of Château Les Trois Croix, winemaking at Almaviva in Chile, and at Opus One with Robert Mondavi. It proves to be another winning streak. 

Patrick Léon’s involvement, open-minded approach, and tremendous technical skill together with the innovative techniques of Bruno le Breton create an invaluable and solid base for exceptionally high-quality wines at La Jasse. It also allows Bruno and his team to concentrate on producing special cuvées, such as ‘Tête de Cuvée’ in 2016, the ‘everyday Grand Cru’. The 2016 is admittedly one of Bruno’s greatest accomplishments.

Domaine de la Jasse winemaker Bruno le Breton and Patrick Léon. Photo credits: blb-vignoble
Domaine de la Jasse winemaker Bruno le Breton and Patrick Léon. Photo credits: blb-vignoble

Is it classic, is it Pauillac, is it an a cru for every day of the week?

It is the everyday cru Hans Walraven had in mind a “classic Pauillac”? I would say almost, however this wine has “pizzazz”. La Jasse shows a energy and exuberance that arises under the influence of the sun and “garrigue”, the typical French term for a mix of lavender, juniper, thyme, rosemary and sage.

The tasting

‘Tête de Cuvée’ starts with an intensely perfumed nose of violets, lavender and rosemary, followed by vanilla and a beautiful bouquet of black fruit, such as ripe black currants and blackberries. There are also ageing aromas, such as mocha and drying tobacco leaves. The first sip of wine reveals a full bodied and powerful wine. Silky texture, with a good acidity or fraîcheur and noticeable rich mouthfeel. Fine flavors of black currants, ripe black cherries and a hint of roasted almonds, also garrigue and vanilla notes. The tannins are present, but well integrated. Softer than a Bordeaux, but excellent quality with a ripe fruit, spicy, sophistication, and a long finish. 2016 was an excellent vintage and has an ageing potential till 2026.
 

Not your average wine

Even those who have little interest in wine – and those people exist – such a person will also notice that this
wine is different. The wonderful thing is that Domaine de la Jasse ‘Tête de Cuvée’ 2016 pairs perfectly with food, especially with Mediterranean cuisine.

Domaine de la Jasse – la taille – the pruning

Pays D’Oc is by far the largest of the IGPs in France

The wines of  Domaine de la Jasse find their origin in the heart of the Pays D’Oc, in Combaillaux, about 15 km north of Montpellier. The vineyards are located in between two Languedoc crus: Pic Saint-Loup and Les Terrasses du Larzac. Cabernet-Sauvignon (making up 70% of the vineyards), is the king grape variety or ‘cépage roi’ of the estate, but not an allowed grape variety under the AOC rules.

It suits winemaker Le Breton well. He has a unique perspective on the meaning of ‘terroir’ within the context of the appellation system. Winemaking is more than just following the local appellation’s regulations. Instead, he prefers the freedom of the less stringent rules of the IGP Vin de Pays d’Oc. When wines are not made from  the permitted grapes Grenache, Mourvèdre, Syrah Carignan, and Cinsault, they almost automatically fall under the Pays d’Oc Indication Géographique Protégée (IGP).

Ceci n’est pas un vin ordinaire – c’est Domaine de la Jasse Tête de Cuvée 2016

Every disadvantage can have an advantage too

Yet, the high quality and diversity of the terroirs make the Pays D’Oc one of the most dynamic wine regions of Southern France. Within the Pays d’Oc IGP, winemakers also have the luxury of working with no fewer than 58 different grape varieties. Yet, all IGP grapes must be cultivated within the boundaries of the Pays D’Oc. And, before the IGP certification, the wines are tasted for quality, typicity, and traceability.*

Blending is allowed within the Pays D’Oc rules, but many of the best (and best known) quality wines in the IGP Pays D’Oc are “vins de cépage”, wines made from one grape variety. La Jasse’s ‘Tête de Cuvée’  is one of them.

Ceci n’est pas un vin ordinaire – c’est Domaine de la Jasse Tête de Cuvée 2016

A gesamtkunstwerk in a bottle

The simple depiction of the old Plane tree on the label is really part of the whole artwork. After all, anyone who has ever been to the South of France knows them, rows of Plane trees are a common sight. La Jasse means shelter in the local Occitan language. The image is so specific that the mighty plane tree becomes the trademark and logo of La Jasse. For more than 110 years, sheep, and people, have found shelter and shelter under the imposing Plane tree of the domain. This gives a feeling of respect, not only for the Plane tree, but especially for a wine that is made with so much loving craftsmanship, precision and attention to detail. Ceci n’est pas un vin ordinaire, c’est un vin classique, c’est un cru de tous les jours, c’est ‘Tête de Cuvée’ 2016.

* If you ever get the chance to participate in a taste panel, take that chance with both hands. In my panel experience, we could taste typicity,  the influence of terroir on the style of the wine, but tasted blind, it was quite difficult to trace a wine back to its original soils, due to the enormous diversity of soils in the Pays D’Oc.

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Planeta Etna Bianco: saline freshness from the slopes of Mount Etna

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Etna-state of white

In one of the most dynamic wine regions of (Southern) Italy, Planeta Feudo di Mezzo winery produces Etna Bianco. A wine made of Sicily’s ancient white Carricante grape. Grown in the volcanic soils of Mount Etna, this modern take on an Etna white oozes a lot of freshness, minerals and energy.

2017 Etna Bianco Planeta

The Mount Etna region in northeastern Sicily may seem an unlikely site for producing wines, let alone quality wines. Mount Etna is often active, erupts from time to time and is difficult to work on. Tending and harvesting of the high-elevation vineyards have to be done by hand, which is time-consuming and expensive. Wine makers have to be committed, patient and take the local hardships for granted, and still, wineries are queuing up to purchase vineyard property in the region. What happened? Why vintners flock to the foothills and slopes of Mount Etna to work with Etna’s native red Nerello Mascalese, Nerello Cappuccio and white Carricante grapes?

Planeta Etna Bianco: saline freshness from the slopes of Mount Etna

From the slopes of the Etna

We’ll find the result of this ongoing wine renaissance in the glass: Etna Bianco 2017 from winery Planeta. Planeta’s Etna Bianco embraces the Carricante, a indigenous white grape grown on the volcanic soil of Mount Etna in Sicily. If you have never heard of the Carricante, thinking that Etna mostly produces red, then you are not the only one. Long enough red wines dominated the Northeast of Sicily. White was invariably ignored or only used in blends. Only around the late 1980s winemakers started to experiment with obscure indigenous grape varieties.

The slow return of Sicily’s indigenous grape varieties

In general, you can say that until the 1990s there was an absence of local knowledge on how to work well with Etna’s indigenous grapes. Wine producers were challenged too by the local bureaucratic rules restricting future vineyard and cellar development, infrastructural shortcomings, and environmental neglect. While at the time one could observe a lack of awareness or information about Etna’s native grapes in the wine trade and consumer markets as well.

Planeta Etna Bianco: saline freshness from the slopes of Mount Etna

The very fragmented vineyard ownership structure on Mount Etna represented another serious problem and might explain why the Sicilian wine company Planeta did not plug into the Etna phenomenon sooner. Even Planeta had to wait till 2008 before it could plant their first Carricante vines in the fertile black, stoney soil.

Altitude, diurnal temperature variation and slow berry growth

Etna’s climate is ideal for the Carricante. The Carricante grapes are grown at a height of 690 to 720 meters on the old lava flows and the forests around Feudo di Mezzo in the area of Castiglione di Sicilia. A lot of sunlight during the day together with very cool nighttime temperatures ensure the preservation of flavors and acidity (high malic acid). Such temperature variations benefit the grapes.  It not only facilitates slow berry growth but also contributes to the complexity of flavors. A Mediterranean sea breeze from the northeast, called ‘Grecale’, makes the salt stick to the grape skin. This gives Carricante wines their typical notion of savoury salinity.

  During harvest, grapes are hand-picked and immediately cooled to 8 ° C. Then the fermentation follows at 15 ° C, 85% is fermented in stainless steel and 15% of the must goes into large barrels.

Planeta Etna Bianco: saline freshness from the slopes of Mount Etna

Ageing potential

The best Carricante wines are rich and concentrated with distinctive saline mineral notes, green herbs (anise and mint) and citrus flavors. Carricante wines have the ability to age well. Over time, they can adopt a kerosene quality reminiscent of matured Riesling. Like Riesling, Carricante never loses its fresh juiciness, due to its tangy acidity and relatively little alcohol. The Carricante proves that it is here to stay.  In the hands of the right producers, Etna’s native grapes can produce very promising results.

In the glass: Etna Bianco 2017

The wine is pale straw yellow. The nose opens with hints of ripe white summer fruit, which immediately reminds you of a bowl of juicy nectarines, wild peaches and the fragrant scent of lemons. Not before long followed by volcanic, mineral nuances and a slight reference to wood. The Etna Bianco is juicy with a smooth texture, lots of summer fruit, green apples, white peaches and also a little tropical lime and mint. Enjoyable with a fairly long finish characterized by the slightly bitter aftertaste of Sicilian almonds.

Great food and wine matches

The Etna Bianco is delicious as an aperitif. You can pair it well with Vitello Tonnato, a vegetable pie, soft cheese or the traditional Sicilian Easter lamb. Is perfect too with Fusilli con Tonno, cod, smoked mackerel or the classic tuna steak.

Tip: Don’t serve Planeta’s Etna Bianco too cold. Best is to leave the wine about 15 -30 minutes at room temperature. You’ll notice that the wine grows exponentially in mouth-feel and floral aromas.

Producer: Planeta Area: Etna DOC Country: Italy Grape variety: 100% Carricante Year: 2017 Alcohol: 13% Serving temp. 12-14 ° C Wine style: juicy, mineral white Storage potential: until 2022

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