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1 May 2024

The challenge of predicting the next big collectable Italian wine

AdminTGT Inspiration, Italy, Latest, New favourites someday, Newest, Wine Talk, Winejus Emag next big collectable Italan

Italian Challenge

It is a challenge to predict the next big collectable Italian wine from a specific region as the wine world is dynamic and constantly evolving. However, we accept the challenge to reveal 5 interesting wines or even the next big collectables per region.

The Vinitaly International Academy (VIA) in Verona, Italy assigned us the challenge of predicting the next big collectable Italian wine. Quite a daunting task considering the numerous renowned Italian wines available. In the world of Italian fine wines, certain wines stand out for their exceptional quality and reputation. Among them are the Tuscan wines known as the Big Five – Sassicaia, Tignanello, Solaia, Masseto, and Ornellaia – highly coveted and sought-after by wine collectors.

However, other wines are becoming increasingly popular too in the fine wine world. Amarone della Valpolicella from Veneto and Barolos and Barbarescos from Piedmont are excellent alternatives to expensive Burgundy wines or the Italian Big Five. Barolos and Barbarescos’ most iconic bottles, known for their high quality and value for money, have already gained popularity among wine collectors. Despite the fluctuating prices of these wines under different circumstances and vintages, their prices display an undeniable upward trend.

Wine is perceived differently by different people. For me, wine has always been about drinking, preferably in good company, while others prefer collecting. Some collectors think that the value of a collectable wine comes from owning it, from having it in the cellar, not necessarily from drinking it. Is this a good thing for wine? That is debatable, as one of the most rewarding aspects of collecting and cellaring wine is to enjoy your collection over time.

In short, Winejus has accepted the VIA challenge and searched the scope of Italian wines to identify five wines that have the potential to become the next big collectable. One of the critical factors in the search is affordability.

To identify these wines, we applied specific criteria. By using these criteria, we hope to discover wines that are not only collectable but also accessible to wine lovers and devotees:

Indigenous or native Italian grapes used to create authentic Italian-style wines. Wines made with respect for the terroir, history, and grape variety.
Wines produced from old vines (35 years or more) or ungrafted Vitis vinifera generate a lower yield but often with more intensity.
Rarity. A limited amount of available bottles. Wines of low but high-quality yields, single vineyard wines, rare grape varieties or older aged wines.
Longevity/ageing potential. One of the most definitive indicators of a future value is the ageing potential of a wine. Unexpected grape varieties can produce age-worthy wines, proving that everyone who thought differently was wrong.
Grapes from exceptional vintages.
Wines from volcanic soils. The most exciting and intriguing wines coming out of Italy have one thing in common: the volcanic origins of their soils.
There is a trend towards wines produced in a cooler climate or from higher altitudes, and vineyards planted on north-facing slopes or close to the sea produce wines that are generally lighter and fresher and with lesser alcohol content. This aligns with current consumer trends for fresh white wines, lower alcohol and sparkling wines. A trend for nature-inspired or orange wines is emerging.
Sustainability, Organic, Bio. The growing attractiveness of sustainability to wine consumers is prompting more winemakers to produce sustainable wines. These wines are often certified as organic or bio.
Critical acclaim. Wines that receive high scores and praise from wine critics and publications are often considered collectable due to their critical acclaim.

Curious about which wines we come up with that are of value or interest to wine collectors or drinkers? Read our future articles about interesting wines or even the next big collectables per Italian wine region. It’s important to note that not all wine drinkers are collectors and vice versa. Some aficionados purchase wine solely to drink it. Ultimately, the next big collectable wine from Italy could come from any region that consistently produces fine wines of exceptional quality, distinctiveness, and age-worthiness, capturing the attention of collectors and wine enthusiasts alike.

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22 April 2024

Tasting the unique Loimer Gluegglich white NV driven by curiosity

AdminTGT Austria, Latest, Tasting notes, White wine, Winejus Emag, Wines worth trying - Tasted an tried 0

Tasting Note

Gluegglich ‘Gemischter Satz’ white welcomes you into the enchanting world of the Austrian winery Loimer. Gemischter Satz is an old Austrian tradition in which different grape varieties are planted and (generally) fermented together. The blend of different grape varieties results in a layered aroma palette and pleasant tension in the wine. This biodynamic Gluegglich white is a wonderfully fresh orange-style wine, low in alcohol with subdued spiciness. When you taste Gluegglich it shows an invigorating, gracious congeniality.

After I visited Weingut Loimer in 2017 the estate always stayed on my radar. Why? Because Fred Loimer is an exceptionally talented winegrower. Loimer combines all his talents to create authentic wines, shaped by their place of origin. His passion for making remarkable wines quickly earned him the nickname perfectionist.

Loimer took over the family winery (making wine since the 17th century) from his parents in 1998. Fred’s mission is to produce wines that tell a story about their location and the power of nature via the respectful treatment of soil, plants, animals and people. Loimer’s production process can be described as a “closed operating organism”, or what Rudolf Steiner, the father of biodynamic agriculture, called the outcome of “farm individuality”. The result can sometimes be controversial but the wines are always authentic.

Loimer has plots of land in various areas, all of which have different soils and microclimates that are better for growing certain varieties. Of the 40 hectares of vineyards that Fred Loimer manages, the vineyards around Langelois (Kamptal) and Gumpoldskirchen (Thermenregion) allow him to produce Gluegglich, the expressive field blend of grapes that radiates both finesse, balance and complexity in the glass.

The aromas on the nose are fruit-driven and include scents of dried and fresh yellow apples, pink pears, apricots, roses and even orange blossoms. Completely dry with a strong citrus expression, such as bitter orange and pink grapefruit. The compact body shows a juicy texture with grip, dynamic tension and notes of salt-crusted orange slices. The lively acidity is laced in the finish with a mineral saltiness often called sapidity.

When you taste Gluegglich keep a quote from Salvador Dali in mind: “The connoisseur does not drink wine but tastes its secrets.’’ Gluegglich is a wine you should try if you are looking for a fresh, fruity wine with a unique twist, a wine often praised for its unique taste and aftertaste.

Wine Info

Style – Medium-bodied fresh, layered, not filtered wine

Grape varieties – 18% Grüner Veltliner, 21% Riesling, 6% Chardonnay, 16% Zierfandler, 3% Weißburgunder, 13% Sauvignon Blanc, 11% Rotgipfler, 7% Traminer, 4% Weißburgunder, 1% Gemischterer Satz, 1% Muskateller

Vintage – Non-vintage blend, 2022 (45%), 2021 (35%) 2020 (9%), 2019 (4%), 2018 (7%)

Country – Austria

Appellation – According to the Austrian wine law, a wine from different vintages can “only” be called ‘Landwein’.

Region – Thermenregion and Kamptal

Producent – Weingut Loimer

Alcohol – 12%

Fermentation: spontaneous in oak casks partly with berries or mash.

Aging: 4 months on full lees, 2 months on fine lees, up to 3 years of the vintage reserves

Vineyards – Gumpoldskirchen and Langenlois

Ageing potential – till 2025

Serving temperature – 11º to 14º

Score – 90 points

Tasted – April 2024

Recommended food pairing: down-to-earth cooking, such as grilled vegetables or seafood

Bio reference: Kontrollstelle AT-BIO-402 | Österreichische Landwirtschaft

Remarks: The wine has 5 out of 5 glasses in the Austrian Wine Guide.

Weingut Loimer Langenlois Austria

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28 January 2024

Abruzzo’s Montepulciano grapes achieve better results in Villamagna DOC

AdminTGT Italy, Latest, Masterclasses & events, Wine Tastings and masterclasses, Winejus Emag villamagna 0

Montepulciano

It was a clear but cold day in January in Amsterdam. In a cosy wine cellar, Frank Smulders MW presented a masterclass about the wines of Villamagna. Villamagna DOC is a real people story. With a lot of passion and effort the local producers established the best potential sites for high-quality Montepulciano grapes and the necessary appellation protocols. The DOC consists of a modest 85 hectares, making it one of the smallest appellations in Italy and the world.

Adernats Nulles Wine Cathedral- modernist winery designed in 1917 by César Martinell

Villamagna demands an introduction. Villamagna is a quaint medieval village in the province of Chieti in the Italian Abruzzo region. Villamagna DOC is the demarcated wine area where the Montepulciano grape reigns, not to be confused with Vino Nobile di Montepulciano predominantly made from Sangiovese, there known as Prugnolo gentile. The territory of Villamagna, including the municipalities of Villamagna, Vacri and Bucchianico, is at the centre of the Montepulciano d’Abruzzo wine production area.

Abruzzo’s Montepulciano grapes achieve better results in Villamagna DOC

A bit of history

You won’t be surprised that the Villamagna wine story did not begin in 2011 when the Villamagna DOC was established. Already in 1059, the name Villamagna appeared in the papal bull by Niccolò II. And, in 1323, Villamagna could be found in the “Register of Parchments” of the Archiepiscopal Curia of Chieti as a land of vineyards. Villa-magna comes from two Latin words: ”Villa” meaning mansion, and “Magnus”, meaning great. According to one of the producers present at the tasting, the town’s name Villamagna or “big farm” (in Latin) expresses its viticultural vocation well. Its unique location, 10 km from the Adriatic Sea (generating sea breezes) but also near the foothills of the Majella mountain range (with a distinct diurnal temperature range during the growing season), makes Villamagna a favourable place for viticulture.

The road to Villamagna DOC

At the end of the 1990s, the road to a Villamagna Doc was not a frivolous decision of some local wine families and enthusiasts. It required a decade of studies focusing on the composition of the soil, the harvests of the previous decades, the exposure of the vineyards and the clones of Montepulciano Villamagna to get the seal of approval. From 2011 on, Villamagna can call itself a Controlled Designation of Origin or DOC.

The standards for Villamagna DOC wines are higher than for Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC wines.

The distinctive feature of the Villamagna wine region is the combination of sandy-clayey soils (that give the wine complexity, softness and longevity) and calcareous-marly soils (that enhance the deep colour, intense and varied aromas). Not just soil, but also the microclimate, the altitude and the south-east or south-west exposure play an important role. A Villamagna DOC needs to contain at least 95% Montepulciano grapes, and comes in two types: DOC and DOC Riserva. The maximum permitted vineyard yield is lower (maximum yield per hectare: 12,000 kilos compared to 14,000 kilos), and the minimum alcohol level is 13.0% ABV (alcohol by volume) for Rosso and 13,5% ABV for Villamagna DOC Riserva compared to Montepulciano d’Abruzzo minimum of 11.5%.

The Montepulciano grape in Villamagna

The Montepulciano performs best in clay soils with a chalky content. On these soils, the variety is moderately vigorous when pruned relatively short. Montepulciano buds late and is hardly affected by spring frosts. It needs a hot climate and a long ripening season to reach peak quality. The variety has a thick skin, well adapted to high summer temperatures, that produces ample colour and tannins. During the masterclass, someone remarked that the wines of the Villamagna DOC have a good acidity. According to Frank Smulders, this is only part of the story when we talk about the ageing potential of wine. People often think that if a red wine has a balanced acidity, the wine can age well. Frank Smulders adds that grape tannin structure is equally (if not more) important. He explains that it is not the amount of tannins that is crucial but the quality of the tannins. Therefore, the right moment of harvesting is essential. Montepulciano is often one of the last varieties to be picked. The grapes need to be picked when the tannins achieve their optimum ripeness.

Villamagna DOC wines

At their best, the wines from the Montepulciano grapes can be fantastic. Elegant and powerful is how most of the producers describe their wines. The Villamagna wines have a good acidity and tannin structure, besides the ability to display different layers of flavour other than simple fruits, including cinnamon, clove, black pepper, liquorice, chocolate, oregano and thyme. Let’s hope that the 6 producers (out of total 10) from the Villamagna DOC Producers Association continue their commitment to quality in the vineyard and cellar for many years to come, Winejus would not mind to join a vertical tasting at some point.

We tasted:

Piandimare Villamagna DOC 2020 Monolith: long fermentation on the skins with temperatures that can reach up to 30°C. Maturation of 18 months in steel, 6 months in barrels and 6 in bottles. Notable here are the tannins, both grape tannins and the softer tannins imparted by wood.

Torre Zambra Villamagna DOC 2020: 45 days long maceration on the skins. Ageing took place in vitrified concrete for 6 months, in French and Slavonian oak tonneaus (50% new wood and 50% old wood) for 10 months and in bottle for 6 months. On the nose hints of ripe fruits, such as black cherry and raspberry, herbal, spicy notes and tertiary aromas, tobacco, cocoa and liquorice. In the mouth it is quite tannic and persistent.

Valle martello Villamagna DOC 2019: 30 day long maceration on the skins in stainless steel tanks, refined 6 months in barriques followed by 12 months bottle ageing. Good acidity, intense fruity notes of mulberry, black cherry and blackberry and some toasted vanilla. Soft and velvety tannins.

Cantina Villamagna Villamagna DOC 2019: selection of Montepulciano grapes coming from the vineyards of the 230 winemakers of the Villamagna cooperative winery in the production area of the Villamagna DOC. Fermentation and maceration for approximately 20 days in stainless steel tanks. Maturation for 24 months in concrete tanks (70%) and French oak tonneaux (30%). Bottle ageing for at least 6 months. Well balanced with abundant black fruit, fresh acidity and integrated tannins, yet with less intensity on the palate than the previous wines.

Cascina delle Colle Villamagna DOC Riserva 2018: 15 to 20 days maceration on the skins in stainless steel at controlled temperatures, followed by a 6-8 months ageing period in barrique, second passage. Ripe black forest and cherry fruits, violets and some herbal notes on the nose. Pleasant, velvety tannins and good aromatic persistence.

Palazzo Battaglini Villamagna DOC Riserva 2016: grapes were harvested later, around November. Maceration on the skins lasted for 20 days. Then aged for 12 months in concrete tanks and a further 18 months in partly in barrique and tonneaus. Lots of ripe fruits on the nose, such as blueberries, sweet cherries, violets and myrtle. On the palate a clear, almost muscular, tannin structure, persistent flavours of chocolate, liquorice, cinnamon and a balsamic note.

Website: https://villamagnadoc.it/en/home-en/

A big thanks to the Villamagna DOC Producers Association and Gishlaine Melman for organising the Masterclass.

12 January 2024

Bakaliko – how to make you just eat great Cretan food

AdminTGT Bars and restaurants, Coleur locale, Food and wine, Greece, Latest, Travel stories, Winejus Emag 0

Positively Cretan

The coasts of Crete are famous for their beauty, but there is also great pleasure in spending time in the enticing inland, adorned with stunning natural vineyards. We are heading to restaurant Bakaliko in the beautiful wine village of Archanes.

We are driving from Heraklion along the waving roads in the beautiful valley south of Knossos and come across the first vineyards in no time. Vineyards galore, beautiful landscapes and sleepy villages, until we reach our destination Archanes. There is a lot to say about this village located on the slopes of the holy Mount Giouhtas or Mount Yuhtas (811m), where legend says the god Zeus was buried. Archanes is one of the most flourishing villages in Crete, with deep roots in Minoan antiquity and a rich wine producing tradition.

Bakaliko – how to make you just eat great Cretan food

The winding road from Heraklion to Archanes, the wine route of Crete

Viticulture around Archanes has a history of circa 4,000 years. We can safely assume that the area was part of an ancient Minoan wine region. Not far from Archanes, archeological excavations have brought to light one of the oldest Minoan (second millennium B.C.) wine presses on Crete. The Minoans didn’t consume their wines only locally. Seafarers as they were, they traded and transported their renowned wine in amphora vases throughout most of the Mediterranean.

Archanes seems quiet and empty in the hot afternoon sun until we reach the main square. The central square is full of lively tavernas, their tables carefully arranged in the shade of leafy old trees. It struck us that many activities occur simultaneously on the square, people come are sit here to meet each other, to eat, to talk, to gossip, as long as time lasted.

A Cretan love story

Amidst all the Greek tavernas, we find Bakaliko. Bakaliko was founded in early 2013 by two pioneering Hungarian women, Agnes and Susanna, who had come separately to Crete and both fell in love with Cretan island living. Enamoured by the beauty and bounty of Crete, the Cretan produce and wines, they decided to stay. The idea was to create a store and delicatessen restaurant. To cook some simple recipes to help visitors discover the amazing Cretan products. The name Bakaliko was a natural choice. Bakaliko, a word of Turkish origin, refers to a store. In 2017, Agnes returned to her native Budapest to pursue other interests.

Local with a twist

Bakaliko is now run solely by Susanna and her husband George, a native Cretan. Susanna and George met at a sailing-club restaurant in the port of Heraklion, where she worked as a cook and he in the dining room, before they started their Bakaliko adventure together with Agnes. We ran into George after lunch to discover his passion and knowledge of the wines of Crete and Greece.

As lovers of good food, we could not resist the temptation to savour the tastes Babaliko had discovered. Bakaliko’s commitment to fresh ingredients, prepared with lot’s of love for the produce, delighted us. Genuine Cretan flavours, but with a twist, executed with modern techniques, sophistication and elegance. We are in for a remarkable lunch.

Bakaliko’s philosophy of fine foods and wines

We order Dakos, the typical Cretan rusks topped with tomatoes, olives, olive oil, fresh herbs and crumbled Myzithra; delicious dolmades, the beautiful bulgur-wrapped vine leaves finished with lemon and mind tzatziki, and the rice pilaf with feta, toasted pistachios and pomegranate seeds. All accompanied by a savoury watermelon salad. George was kind enough to pair all of our dishes with a well-selected wine per glass that complemented the dish.

Life is filled with unusual surprises. One of them was the tarte tatin. This heavenly French dessert with the taste of dark and sticky caramel, sweet apples and crisp pastry. George told us that people come specially to Bakaliko to eat this wonderful dessert. Good food and wines are part of Crete and Greece. When you visit Bakaliko restaurant you’ll be in for a treat as much as we were at this charming, little place.

Bakaliko Archanes – Main Square, Ano Archanes, Crete
Website: https://www.bakalikocrete.com Email: info@bakalikocrete.com

Lovers of good wine, Archanes-Asterousia, one of the major wine-producing territories of Crete, has a website showing the wine route to numerous wineries open to visitors, offering guided tours and tastings.

26 April 2023

Ready for the surprising quality of Domaine Karanika’s sparkling wines?

AdminTGT Greece, Latest, Sparkling Wines, Winejus Emag 0

Greek Bubbels

The upcoming wine region of Amyntaio in the far north of Greece attracted newcomers Laurens (half-Greek) and Annette Hartman to make high-quality wines, sustainably. It was not long before people such as Tom Stevenson, a leading authority on Champagne and sparkling wines, started to pay attention to Karanika’s world-class sparkling wines.

Ready for the surprising quality of Domaine Karanika’s sparkling wines?

Philosophizing on a Greek expression & the start of Domaine Karanika

There is an expression in the Greek language I particularly like. Grab an Egg and Shave It (πιάσ’ τ’ αβγό και κούρευ’ το). Meaning: there is no escaping a challenging situation—you might as well try shaving an egg, indicating that someone is facing a seemingly impossible task. When Dutch nationals Laurens Hartman and Annette van Kampen left Holland in 2004 with a strong desire to produce high-quality wines in Greece, later specified as traditional method sparkling wines of the highest quality, they were clearly shaving an egg.

Ancient Greek roots

Laurens’ love for low alcohol, high acidity wines and the Greek red, indigenous xinomavro grape variety led them to Greece, the birth country of Laurens’ mother Katerina Karanika. During a stay in Greece, Laurens and Annette decided to take a closer look at the Amyndeo or Amyntaio region, about a two-hour drive northwest of Thessaloniki. In 2006 Laurens and Annette found their ideal geographical environment in Amyntaio, Macedonia, a place not known for quality sparkling wines. Local grape growers did not believe in quality wine from Amyntaio, let alone quality sparkling wines. By the 1990s, Angelos Iatrides (Alpha Estate) and Yiannis Boutaris (Kir-Yianni) had grasped the potential of the forgotten vineyards in Amyntaio with their ancient, ungrafted xinomavro and assyrtiko vines.

Amyntaio, named after the ancient king of Macedon, Amyntas III – the grandfather of Alexander the Great – has seen grape cultivation since antiquity. The old vineyards – called Ampelotopia – near Karanika in the village of Levea, or Λεβαια, the ancient capital during the reign of the father of Alexander the Great, is an old vineyard area. Amynteio is also one of the coolest wine regions in Greece.

Newcomers are doing things different

What locals considered an impossible climate to ripen the grapes adequately became an advantage for Laurens and Anette. And, considering the climate change for other wineries too. In the past, the grapes had problems ripening fully because of the cool climate, though that is not the only reason. The use of artificial fertilizers and the aim to squeeze as many hectoliters out of the vineyards as possible to sell as blending material for wines from other areas proved another issue. Laurens and Anette, on the contrary, were not interested in quantity. They wanted to produce high-quality wines in a sustainable manner.

They consider it their mission to contribute to a better image of Greek wine. Laurens is convinced that Greek wines can compete with the best wines in the world. He favours the noble Xinomavro grape, which thrives best in colder, continental northern Greece. Xinomavro has similar characteristics and qualities as Nebbiolo. There is not a lot of colour intensity, yet Xinomavro wines have a complex, rich, enchanting personality and appealing aromas of red and black fruits, tomato and olives. To show its potential, Laurens trained as a winemaker at UC Davis, California and viticulture in Europe. Annette takes care of the vineyards.

A cool region brilliant for making sparkling wine

Surrounded by the imposing high mountains of Vermio, Vitsi and Kaimaktsalan, Karanika’s vineyards are located on a plateau at an altitude ranging from 570 to 750 meters between the lakes of Vegoritis and Petres. Almost cut off from the Mediterranean influence of the Aegean, the climate can be described as continental, with dry, sunny summers and cold, snowy winters.

Additionally, there are the winds. These winds are important for grape growing, explains Laurens. The winds help to aerate the vines, meaning less or hardly any pesticides and fewer diseases. All in line with Karanika’s organic/ biodynamic philosophy toward producing high-quality grapes from the old ungrafted and newer Xinomavro vines, the younger Assyrtiko vines and the almost forgotten variety Limniona. Diseases are dealt with by means of homoeopathic sprays. The soil is revitalized by cover crops, manure from the animals of a neighbouring shepherd, and the left-over grape pomace is used to increase soil fertility.

Reinventing quality

It took about 5 years of organic and later biodynamic work before the vines on Karanika produced grapes of the anticipated quality. The extremely low pH values of the Xinomavro in Amyntaio was perfect for a high-quality bubble. Especially interesting for the production of sparkling wines are the sandy, lime soils in the old ‘ampelotopi’ area of Levea, where Karanika has planted 7 hectares of Xinomavro and Assyrtiko. The white soils there contain a lower layer of marl with particularly notable high calcium content, in composition comparable to Champagne, which gives notably low pH values. In 2009 they decided to make a thousand bottles of sparkling.

As it turns out, this extraordinary wine story does not end here. Winejus is not done yet. In June 2023, we’ll visit Domaine Karanika. For now, I leave you with a story about trying to shave an egg. Was it worth it? I am sure that the Hartman family, who quit their day jobs in publishing to pursue their love of Xinomavro, will answer: “We’re so glad we tried and succeeded, in spite of everything”.

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22 December 2022

Le Pinada or how to decode the tricky personality of the Marsanne grape

AdminTGT France, Latest, Pays d'Oc, Winejus Emag, Wines worth trying - Tasted an tried Le Pinada Marsanne 0

Resolutely Meditteranean

It is the story of the origin that matters here. The vineyards of Puisserguier are surrounded by “Garrigues”. This “je ne sais quoi” gives the Marsanne grape its gentle, fruity expression in Le Pinada Marsanne IGP Pays D’Oc 2018.

So that is that. I wanted to write about a Marsanne wine. 100% Marsanne wines are not easy to find. Le Pinada Marsanne surprised me. Le Pinada has a pleasant, slightly floral, nose full of white fruit, peach, pear and sweet lemon, also some acacia. On the palate, the wine is fresh, juicy, generous, pleasantly dry, fruity, with a touch of almondy bitterness in the finish.

Le Pinada or how to decode the tricky personality of the Marsanne grape

Cave coopérative de Puisserguier got it right with this wine

It is the story of the origin that matters here. Le Pinada 2018 IGP Pays D’Oc is a gentle expression of a Marsanne coming from the rugged, stoney soils of Hérault, in the Languedoc-Roussillon wine region.

Marsanne can be a tricky grape to grow

A winemaker has to walk a fine line to find the right balance between acidity and ripeness. This leaves only a narrow window for harvest. Done right, Marsanne possesses a sly acidity, ripe fruit flavours, plus enough structure and weight to become an age-worthy, complex wine. Left too long on the vine, Marsanne can easy over ripen, gain in alcohol, and lose its acidity levels. Resulting in a flabby wine. Picked too early herbaceous, vegetal aromas can prevail.

The grapes for the Le Pinada wines are picked at night to preserve the freshness. Fermentation is carried out at a low temperature so that the fruit aromas remain optimally present in the wine. After fermentation, the wine remains on the lie, the dead yeast cells, for another 2 months to gain complexity.

A few decennia ago, producers of the village of Puisserguier suffered from the effects of overproduction. This was not at the time uncommon. Languedoc-Roussillon was mostly known for the production of large quantities of bulk wine of acceptable quality.

Stories like these, have been told often

Faced with periodic difficulties to sell their wines in an increasingly competitive market, producers in the Languedoc-Roussillon long ago learned to organize themselves into cooperatives. The Puisserguier cooperative was founded in 1936. Faced with a decline in wine consumption, more international competition, and the growing demand for higher quality wines, the future looked bleak.

The producers were so reliant on poor sales that they tended to disregard the fall in prices and the change in consumer taste. Grubbing out old vines and distilling the oversupply with EU subsidies only temporarily eased the crisis. The whole situation demanded a radical change.

Innovation, a new generation, quality improvement and modern marketing

About 20 years ago, the Puisserguier cooperative started to innovate vigorously by reorganizing vineyards, replanting varieties and improving their wine production methods. Several grape varieties from elsewhere in France were planted, such as Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Merlot. The wine quality increased significantly, and modern marketing put Puisserguier’s wines on the wine map.

Joint ventures

Located in the department of Hérault, about 20 km west of Béziers, the ‘Cave coopérative de Puisserguier’ is a partner of Trois Terroirs, a joint venture of 5 cooperatives. Trois refers to the three different soil types in the area, slate, limestone/clay and sandstone/marl. The climate is Mediterranean, defined by generous sunshine, and cooling winds from the sea. There are other changes too. Les vignerons de Puisserguier joined the Vignerons du Pays d’Ensérune.

The vines are cultivated on low lands near the sea, or on hilly, rugged vineyards slightly inland characterized by “Garrigues”. In wine terms, Garrigues stands for aromas found in wine such as thyme, lavender, juniper, rosemary, and oregano. Garrigue translates as a scrub in French and means wild-growing aromatic underbrush and scrubs coming from the rugged limestone soils found in Southern France.

Les vignerons de Puisserguier

Puisserguier

2 July 2022

The genius of Prosecco – why Prosecco is not running out of bubbles any time soon

AdminTGT Italy, Latest, Nuggets of wisdom, Sparkling Wines, Winejus Emag Prosecco DOC DOCG 0

Bubbly genius

The genius of Prosecco lies in its enormous popularity. Prosecco’s message oozes lifestyle and goes above and beyond the appeal of just any sparkling wine.

The genius of Prosecco – why Prosecco is not running out of bubbles any time soon

Why talk about the genius of Prosecco? The enormous popularity of Prosecco shows that its message goes above and beyond the appeal of just any sparkling wine. Prosecco is in demand, and everyone seems to like it. People are always finding the best alibi to open a bottle. First and foremost, it is a festive thirst quencher. It has bubbles, is it is light, aromatic, predominantly fruity, and to be honest, quite tasty. Plus, extremely popular and affordable. How did Prosecco manage to tap into the consumer culture of the world at large and create consumer loyalty so successfully?

Prosecco is one of the wine world’s most successful products

Prosecco epitomizes the genius of the wine world. It evolved into a lifestyle brand that exists for reasons beyond selling sparkling wine. It offers consumers the possibility to be part of a successful way of living, in each country attracting a different community that leads by example. In Italy, Prosecco is mainly consumed in bars, as an aperitif or mixed in an Aperol Spritz. In France, it is the chosen drink for family dinners. In the UK it is a party drink or consumed with friends in a wine bar. Millennials like to use it as a basis for cocktails.

It is light, simple to drink and easy to mix. It became the convivial glass to break the ice on social occasions. Prosecco’s success shows in sales numbers too. In 2014 Prosecco for the first time surpassed Champagne in terms of bottles sold worldwide, though not in turnover by a long stretch.

Prosecco as we know it today

Prosecco became such an enormous commercial success in volume and brand name that producers in other parts of the world jumped on the Prosecco bandwagon. Why? Because Prosecco cleverly managed to fill a gap in the sparkling wine market. Champagne was too expensive, too luxurious for just a festive treat. Cava was not. But, Cava suffered from a negative brand image. Prosecco, on the other hand, relayed a positive lifestyle. To drink Prosecco was “cool and fashionable”. It connected the consumer with a luxurious, yet affordable way of living, and made it desirable. Prosecco just oozed “luxury and coolness”, only at a cheaper price point than Champagne.

Infographic credits Corvezzo.it and social vignerons

Regulation became a real necessity

Regrettably, Prosecco gained another reputation too, as the poor man’s Champagne. Besides, back in 2000, when the prosecco boom began, there were estimates that up to 20% of bottles on the market were fake. To separate the wheat from the chaff, the artisanal from the industrial, high volume Prosecco, a better regulation became a real necessity. From 2009 on, the establishment of Prosecco DOC and DOCG and all related production regulations protect the value of the Prosecco brand and confirm the bottle’s status. The Controlled Designation of Origin also implied the separation of the wine and the grape. Until 2009 the name Prosecco was used for both the grape variety as the wine.

The grape Glera, formerly Prosecco

Since the establishment of Prosecco DOC and DOCG the name Prosecco signifies the sparkling wine and the ancient name Glera identifies the grape variety. By rule, Prosecco must contain at least 85% Glera and the rest can be white grape varieties such as Verdisio, Bianchetta, Glera Lunga, Trevigiana, Perera, or less common Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio or Pinot Bianco. Since 2011 Prosecco DOC and DOCG bottles are easily identifiable because of a marked state band with a unique alphanumeric code located on the side of the bottleneck.

A short history of Glera

The first written evidence of the cultivation of the vine Glera appears in 1754 in Il Roccolo Ditirambo by Aureliano Acanti, who wrote something along the lines of “And now I would like to moisten my mouth with Prosecco, with his apple bouquet”. At present we still find the aromas of white flowers, apple, pear and peach in Prosecco.

Glera is a generous vine

Glera is an early budding, a semi-aromatic variety that is particularly sensitive to spring frosts. It does well in the North-Eastern part of Italy, thanks to the Venetian Pre-Alps protecting the Glera from cold northern winds and the mitigating effect of the nearby Adriatic Sea. Glera is characterized by large bunches and medium to high yields. Even with high yields, Glera retains medium to high sugar levels. As a consequence, differences in the taste of Prosecco wines are less linked to sugar levels, but more to maintaining the medium to high acidity levels. Acidity and the presence of aromatics are the components that give Prosecco its freshness, elegance and lightness.

The key difference between Prosecco and Champagne is not only the region

Champagne is made in the French Champagne region in north-eastern France using the traditional method also called méthode Champenoise. After the alcoholic fermentation, the base wine is bottled with added sugar and yeast. During the ageing process, sur lattes, the wine sits on its dying yeast and forms sediment called the lees, which are collected in the neck of the bottle. The bottle is then flash-frozen, the lees are popped out, a process named disgorgement, and the bottle is sealed again. Champagne is mainly made from the three grape varieties Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier.

The case of Col Fondo Prosecco then called Frizzante, next Sui Lieviti, then Spumante Sui Lieviti

Prosecco DOC is at home in the region Friuli and Veneto in north-eastern Italy, excluding the provinces of Rovigo and Verona. In the past Prosecco was made using a method locally called ‘col fondo’, literally with the sediment or lees present on the bottom, similar to the Ancestral method. Winter approaching, the winegrowers left the neutral wines from the Glera grape longer in contact with the skins and lees. To soften the (harsh) skin tannins, they added some sugar. When temperatures started to rise again in spring, fermentation restarted. The Italians say the wine is “frizzante a rifermentazione in bottiglia”, refermented in the bottle. Unlike Champagne, there is no disgorgement. It represents the original Prosecco, a slightly sweet, cloudy, earthy, textured, moderately sparkling wine. Several winemakers are making the original Col Fondo once more but were urged to use the term ‘Sui Lieviti’ -on the yeast or lees- instead. The bottle pressure of col fondo Prosecco is about 2.5 Bar, the new ‘Spumante Sui Lieviti’ rules allow up to 3 Bar. For these so-called Colfondisti, Col Fondo prosecco at 2.5 Bar expresses the terroir best and is the true wine of the region.

The Martinotti, Charmat or Tank method

Now the vast majority of Prosecco is made with the Charmat method. Although, it was Frederico Martinotti who secured the patent for the second fermentation in tanks in 1895. Martinotti’s method was improved by the Frenchman Eugène Charmat in 1910. After the alcoholic fermentation, the wine is placed in a large temperature-controlled autoclave, selected yeasts are added to a pressurized tank of still wine, and the wine is left to ferment for 30 days. After which the wine is bottled under pressure. To be called Prosecco Spumante the pressure will have to be 3 bars or higher. Generally, it is more around 3.5 Bar or 3.5 times atmospheric pressure in a bottle. The Charmat process is cheaper and faster than the méthode Champenoise.

What holds the future for the king of Italian fizz?

Has prosecco reached its saturation point? One could say yes. Although this festive, low alcohol, quite sweet (15 grams per litre of residual sugar is common) fizzy still holds its own in a changing market. After all, with its 24,450 hectares under vine, sales of circa 500 million bottles a year and turnover of a couple of billion, the Prosecco brand is doing incredibly well. Disappointing is the fact that, unfortunately, one finds plenty of mediocre Prosecco on the market.

Quality over quantity?

What will be the future of these mediocre quality Proseccos sold at low prices in supermarkets? Proseccos that lack structure, have feeble aromas and a short, muted finish. Is premiumisation the answer? Will quality reign over quantity or quantity over quality? In 2016, the Consorzio allowed a 3000 hectares augmentation of the area under vines – from 20,000 to 23,000 hectares – to meet the growing demand for wines made under the banner of the Prosecco DOC.

Is premiumisation the answer?

For now, the three Consorzios, 1 DOC, and 2 DOCGs decided not to expand the vineyard area further. Instead, they are aiming to restrict supply and move on to more sustainable vineyard practices. And raise the quality. Or at least show that the consumer that there are different levels of quality. The quality pyramid starts with the Prosecco DOC covering 9 provinces in Veneto and Friuli-Venezia Giulia and ends with Valdobbiadene Superiore di Cartizze DOCG. In the higher tiers, the Proseccos showcase quality, refinement and terroir expression, better bubbles and often diminished sugar levels.

At long last, a brand new category Pink Prosecco or Spumante Rosé Millesimato

The premiumisation of Prosecco also includes the introduction of a new category: Pink or Prosecco Spumante Rosé Millesimato. The official launch of the new category Prosecco Spumante Rosé Millesimato took place on the 25th of November 2020 in Treviso, Italy after getting governmental approval back in May.

Photocredits Pink Prosecco DOC Rosé

Still a majority of white Glera grapes

Prosecco can only be called Prosecco Spumante Rosé if it applies the rules of the new Rosé Prosecco DOC. The rosé blend will still contain a majority of white Glera grapes, yet must include 10-15% Pinot Noir as well. Pinot Noir is the only red grape allowed in Prosecco. In the past, it was used to make a white, blanc de noir wine.

From 2020 on, it is allowed to use Pinot Noir to add colour to Spumante Rosé. Pinot adds delicate aromas of strawberry and raspberry to the wine too. Just wondering why they did not allow another indigenous red variety, such as Raboso, to do the same. Ageing has to last at least 60 days, bottle pressure must be 3 Bar or more, and the Spumante Rosé will be vintage-dated. The Rosé Prosecco DOC expects to sell 16 million bottles in the first year. Let’s see if Spumante Rosé’s fancy Website Pink Prosecco helps to jazz us up. When the quality is good, we could start loving Pink Prosecco as well.

Website Prosecco DOC
Website Consorzio di Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco DOCG
Website Prosecco DOC Consortium and the Casa Prosecco DOC USA
Website Pink Prosecco

9 January 2022

Pago de Larrainzar gives magic to the ancestral land in Navarra

AdminTGT Latest, Red Wine, Spain, Winejus Emag, Wines worth trying - Tasted an tried 0

Bona fide Navarra

A magical forest, a vineyard and a dream to make wine give sense to the ancestral land of the Canalejo Larrainzar family. The result: Pago de Larrainzar Reserva Especial 2014 single vineyard.

Pago de Larrainzar gives magic to the ancestral land in Navarra

I always wish to be born into a family of vine growers and winemakers. A statement I make to underline my romantic vision of a simple but altogether pleasant life. Heaven knows, I even made wine, which I thoroughly enjoyed. Sadly it ended there, for now. I gather my dreams, but for the Larrainzar family, winemaking became a way of life. Their motto for Pago de Larrainzar: to make wine is to give sense to this land.

Some history

Halfway between Logroño and Pamplona, great-great-grandfather Luis Larrainzar acquired land from the monks of the nearby Monastery of Irache in the 1850s. The family farm was part of the Monastery of Irache, which was a hospital and a university during the Middle Ages.
In this magical setting at the foot of the Montejurra Mountain Luis planted Tempranillo grapes and established a small winery with limited production. And, with success. The 1929 wine competition of the World Exposition in Barcelona awarded Pago de Larrainzar a gold medal. Over time, the Larrainzar family decided to distance itself from winemaking but kept the land. In the 1970s, the first winery was sold.

The restart, a family project

After working for decades in the telecommunications industry, 4th generation Miguel C. Larrainzar decided in 2001 to revive the ancestral winemaking tradition. Two of his children joined him on the project: Miguel Canalejo Lasarte, as technical director, and Irene Canalejo Lasarte, as marketing and sales director. To “create” a wine with character and soul from the Larrainzar vineyards, Miguel hired renowned experts such as enologist Ignacio de Miguel Poch and vine specialist Mr Lissarrague to advise and coach the team of Pago de Larrainzar.

A sustainable approach to farming

At Pago de Larrainzar the vineyards are structured in a single plot, located between the right bank of the Ega river and the north slope of Montejurra. Thanks to the soil conditions of the vineyard and the presence of large pebbles, there is excellent water retention. What always stands out, is the importance they give to growing their 17 ha of vines. Their sustainable approach means respectfully working the vineyard without altering the ecosystem. It also follows the rules of the DOP Navarra Control Board, which guarantees quality standards and typicity of the wines.

A blend with personality

The winery uses its best grapes and selected native yeasts common in the area as the base for making red wines. Pago de Larrainzar produces only high-quality red wines from Tempranillo, Garnacha, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. At Pago de Larrainzar they believe in blending wines made from a single harvest. Blending starts with dozens of different potential wines created using different varieties, tank sizes, barrels and toasting levels of French oak barrels. Every three years the barrels are renewed.

The wine, single-vineyard Pago de Larrainzar Reserva Especial 2014

On one of my tastings, this time organised by Vinos D.O. Navarra in Amsterdam, I found Pago de Larrainzar Reserva Especial 2014 in my glass. A wine only made when the vintage is exceptional. The 2014 vintage comes after deciding not to make a Reserva Especial in the 2012 and 2013 vintages.

It is Pago de Larrainzar’s most international blend. This ruby coloured blend of international varieties Cabernet Sauvignon 40%, Merlot 40%, and 20% Tempranillo. The local Tempranillo gives it greater complexity and a genuinely Navarrese character. On the nose, it has good intensity, with notes of black plum, berries, cassis, tomato leaf, cedar, burnt wood, dry hay and an earthy, leathery finish. On the palate, soft, fresh with a good level of acidity, not heavy, very well integrated oak, toast and polished, long finish. In some tastings, certain wines stand out, and this Reserva Especial 2014 was one of them.

Family Canalejo Larrainzar’s motto – to make wine is to give sense to their land in Ayegui, Spain – works very well for me. One day I hope to visit them as I want to discover Pago de Larrainzar and the diversity of landscapes and wines from D.O. Navarra myself.

Bodega Pago de Larrainzar

D.O. Navarra

28 March 2021

I am sorry to tell you that my husband and I are very bad about food

AdminTGT Food and wine, Latest, Nuggets of wisdom, Wine is fun too, Winejus Emag 0

When Ladies’ Home Journal in 1929 asked Eleanor Roosevelt to give her view on food, she confirmed her ill-fated relationship with the quote: “I am sorry to tell you that my husband and I are very bad about food”. Speaking about herself, it could have been true. Though not for her husband Franklin D. Roosevelt. He had quite an appetite for wild duck, lobster, steak, caviar, champagne, women and cocktails.

About politics and unappealing food

From the start of her marriage to Franklin, Eleanor acquired an ill-omened reputation on matters of the palate. Eating gave her no pleasure. During her White House years, Eleanor Roosevelt became notorious for her unappealing dinner menus. She just did not care about food. Everyone who ever ate at the White House complained about the food.

Dainty cookery

Not that she did not try. Coming from a wealthy background, she knew nothing about preparing a meal, let alone a delicious one. The only thing she was very good at was making scrambled eggs. On most Sunday evenings before, after and during the White House years, she practised what women magazines called ‘dainty cookery.’ Eleanor cracks the eggs, adds cream, plus salt and pepper. In full view of the invited guests, she makes scrambled eggs with gusto.

Low budget meals to help the nation through the Depression

During the years of the Great Depression, Eleanor developed a healthy appetite for politics. She quickly realized that food could be a way to help the nation through the Depression. She joined the new home economics movement, which strived to deliver simple, efficient, scientifically based meals at low costs. Not based on taste or tradition, these cheap meals would kill hunger but were never very flavourful.

Un-appetizing seven-and-a-half-cent meals in the White House

Eleanor prided herself to serve low-budget meals in the White House too. She did not want the public to think they were overindulging during Franklin’s presidency. Aided by the most reviled cook in the history of the White House, the talentless Mrs Nesbitt, Eleanor served her seven-and-a-half-cent meals. Not only to the President and her family but to guests and other dignitaries too. Much to their abhorrence. The food in the White House, was in all likelihood the worst they probably had eaten.

The wine had to be cheap too

After 14 years of Prohibition, the American wine industry was more dead than alive. They could use some support. As the story goes, Eleanor decided to serve two American wines at a cabinet dinner, a New York State sparkling wine and a Californian sherry. The serving was limited to one glass of each. Nobody wanted more wine anyway as the sherry was acceptable, yet the New York State sparkling undrinkable. Eleanor had been ill-advised by the undersecretary of agriculture Rexford Tugwell.

However, at an impromptu meeting the next day, the President makes up for the cabinet dinner wine fiasco. He orders a couple of bottles of real French Champagne. They convivially finish them all. Eleanor was nowhere to be seen.

Hotdogs fit for a king and queen

According to another anecdote, Eleanor famously served hot dogs to the King and Queen of England on June 11, 1939. The royals joined president Roosevelt at his New York mansion for a less-formal picnic. The menu included “Hot Dogs (if weather permits).” The queen supposedly asked Roosevelt how one ate a hotdog. He replied: “Very simple. Push it into your mouth and keep pushing it until it is all gone”. She used a knife and fork instead.

Churchill arrives at the White House

The White House kitchen served so much mutton that it became a joke. Prunes, gelatin-filled salads, spaghetti with boiled carrots and sandwiches inundated the lunches and dinners but left the White House table almost untouched. Yet, there were exceptions.

In 1942 Winston Churchill arrives unexpectedly. The White House pulls all the stops and treats Churchill to some remarkably good cooking. Rare roast beef, string beans, salad, Yorkshire pudding and a trifle for dessert. All accompanied by wine, champagne and brandy. Eleanor Roosevelt is astonished, ”that anyone can smoke so much and drink so much and keep perfectly well”.

Don’t trivialize Eleanor Roosevelt

Let no one ever underestimate or trivialize Eleanor’s bad food skills. Away from the White House, alone with her friends, she did cherish the conviviality of food. And through conviviality, being with people she loved, she genuinely amassed a healthy appetite for the delights of the palate.

11 January 2021

Finca San Blas shows the potential of Garnacha from one of Spain’s driest & coldest DOs

AdminTGT Latest, Red Wine, Spain, Winejus Emag, Wines worth trying - Tasted an tried Finca san blas 0

Rooted vision

When you combine the wine ambition of Finca San Blas’ owners, the Spanish Zahonero family, with the vision of the innovative winemaker oenologist Nicolás Sánchez don’t be surprised when Garnacha speaks to you.

Finca San Blas shows the potential of Garnacha from one of Spain’s driest & coldest DOs

On the way to Requena, I contemplate on the subject of roots. Since I had not been west of Valencia for a long time many impressions crowed in on me as I was looking at the vines. If my remote ancestors would have stayed in Spain, would wine be part of my history? Roots imply a connection with the land, the vines, and ultimately making wine. It seemed to me that the earth here was generous and that Finca San Blas took a cue from it.

The natural wealth of Finca San Blas

Finca San Blas’ owners, the Zahonero family, have a very close connection with nature and a very special relationship with wine. The family’s feet are firmly rooted in the soil of their vast 585 hectares estate, 2 km Southwest of Requena and 80 km west of Valencia. Moreover, they strongly believe in biodiversity. Finca San Blas’ not only consists of lush forests with pines and junipers in the high lands. There are the olive and almond trees, plus cereals fields too, and aromatic herbs such as rosemary and saffron. And, vines.

The first vintage of the new Garnacha

Finca San Blas’ grows a kaleidoscope of grapes varieties, such as Bobal, Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Chardonnay, Merseguera, Xarello and Chenin Blanc, yet they select the best grapes for their terroir wines. Their roots impregnated with a diverse range of local flora aromas and flavours known as matoral or tomillares, similar to the impact of garrigue, the local hillside vegetation in the Languedoc. The result, a wine full of character but still elegant. I tasted their new wine, the first vintage -2019- of Finca San Blas Garnacha, the grape called Grenache in France.

Tasting Finca San Blas Garnacha

I immediately noticed the silky texture, it is Garnacha at its young, fruity best. Finca San Blas Garnacha is the result of old bush vines, terroir and winemaking, a 100 % pure varietal wine. Fresh, juicy, medium-bodied, with lively acidity, showing a unique natural, mouth-coating varietal wealth. Generous pure ripe blackberry, red cherry, plum, black and red currant along with subtle, spicy, herbal and some mineral notes too. This is a serious, yet elegant, easy to understand Garnacha that goes extremely well with food.

The natural terroir and height are decisive for Garnacha in Utiel-Requena

To make interesting wine, Garnacha has to be ripe and is in any case late-ripening. Vines are planted on an average altitude of 700 m above sea level. Height is decisive for Utiel-Requena. The diurnal day-night differences (sometimes up to 30 ° C) allow for a slow, optimal maturation of the grapes. Garnacha is helped as well by its ability to thrive without much water. The natural conditions also protect the vines from diseases, they are less prone to vineyard plagues.

The strong link between the Zahonero family and winemaker, oenologist Prof Nicolás Sánchez

The wish to create terroir wines with character is part of the philosophy of the Zahonero family and the winemaker at Finca San Blas, Nicolás Sánchez. Both the Zahonero family as Nicolás are innovators who dare to experiment. Besides, Nicolás Sánchez is a specialist of the Bobal grape variety and one of the most veteran professors of the prestigious School of Viticulture and Enology of Requena. When there were only two wine schools in Spain, many of today’s leading winemakers received their education at Requena. Nicolás also teaches at the famed Polytechnic University of Valencia.

Pioneer in D.O. Utiel-Requena

Nicolás Sánchez makes elegant and complex wines using pioneering techniques never employed before in the area of D.O. Utiel-Requena. Never satisfied with only making the wines that the market wants, he enjoys taking the San Blas terroir to its extreme potential. In 2016, Fica San Blas’ Dulce wine, made in 2013 out of Chardonnay en Merseguera under the influence of noble rot, was awarded “Platinum Best in Show” in the Decanter World Wine Awards.

Of old vines and Garnacha

In an area where cultivating grapes started as early as 700 B.C., it took until the 19th century for the wine production to expand. Finca San Blas started first bottling wines in 1971. Notwithstanding, the region Utiel-Requena is still considered the new kid on the block. Known for its unique and long underestimated Bobal variety, Utiel-Requena started to re-evaluate dry-farmed Garnacha vines too. Instead of cutting Garnacha’s roots away, Garnacha gained permanence, making for a great mix between history and progression. When handled with care Garnacha has its roots deeply embedded in the abundant natural resources of the thriving wine region of Utiel-Requena.